Monday, March 20, 2006



Cold. Sloppy. Stormy. Windy. Dirty.

I want this now!!

Friday, March 17, 2006



Canned Heat had a great half irish blind lead singer. the Blind Owl: founding member, guitarist, harmonica blower and vocalist (the falsetto one) with boogie bluesers, Canned Heat.

By '65 when, along with fellow record collector and blues obsesser, Bob Hite, he formed Canned Heat, Wilson had already brushed shoulders with a giant of the blues. At the request of John Hammond Sr, his first recording project was to assist in the resurrection of Son House, a man whose struggle with the bottle loomed over a 28 year musical absence. Wilson backed up House on Harmonica (and occasionally second guitar) and the two enjoyed a close creative bond.

1970 is when Canned Heat teamed up with another of Wilson's heroes, John Lee Hooker. Hooker said "I dig this kid’s hamonica, you know? I don’t know how he follow me, but he do.” (to Alan) It was Wilson's last recording session before his suicide.

Apart from 'Going Up The Country', 'On The Road Again' is probably Canned Heat's best known tune. On it Wilson plays three tamboura parts, harmonica, guitar and vocals. I prefer this alternate take for three reasons: it's longer, the "keep it light and breezy" intro and, to the best of my knowledge, it hasn't been used to flog cars.

Speaking of heat, It will be here soon won't it? Enough of the cold days, for LA. Enough of the cold water, for LA. Enough of the springish winds, for LA. I want this glassy, energetic, majestic wave now. Please. Either way laddy, enjoy yer St. Paddy's day rolling in everything greeeeeen. Luck o' the Irish to you and your waves this morn'.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006



Love the trippy Bill Barminski art. Acrylic on plaster and canvas.

Looks like the ol' ma nature is going to screw us over again. Bad winds, steep swell, good winds, offshore storm winds, could be good somewhere. I know I have fallen for it a couple times now but maybe I can have a third times a charm barreling time. But no, not with the 3.1@4secs buoy this mornin'. Gross. Spring. Ugh.

Hope you all find your stoke!

Monday, March 13, 2006



Yeeeeah. Hope my immune system is still kickin' and alive. This weekend was super FUN out there. Maybe it was because of the lack of crowds. Maybe it was the offshore peaks if you got out at the right times. Maybe it was the nice little peaky swell.

Nope, I am sure it was because there were not any crowds for once. At the best El Porto sandbar, at the best time on a weekend, there were about 5 people max. Usually you go out there any other weekend at 9am and it is just a zoo. Actually I won't even check Porto on a weekend around that time. It is no fun when a set finally does swing your way with no one around, you turn to paddle and you see 6+ people on the inside in various positions of paddling out at you, grabbing their board from the previous waves thrashing, just looking like a deer in headlights etc. No Fun.

But this weekend was great. It was so cold that it kept a ton of people away. And the ones that did venture out didn't stay out all that long so there was a great turnover rate. I am a cold water pansy for the most part, but when you can get someplace relatively uncrowded, I will shiver all frickin' day. Hope you enjoyed some of the fun mid-storm waves out there. Sunday was especially fun as the tide was dropping. Seemed like the wind stayed down thru early afternoon. My surf soul has been cleansed again. My sinuses are drippin' again. My stoke is back. Ahhh. Thank you Ocean!

For the art heads out there, check out the new Fluxoco, look it up, show. Deeep in downtown LA. Very cool opening party. This dude Yust was there, he takes pics of an entire street, row of houses, whatever and splices them all together to get this entire view. Very cool to see on the walls. An artist there told us that Jerry Stahl (cult favorite writer) bought a piece of his that night. Runs thru April. Go see it.

Friday, March 10, 2006



Whoa. 9.7 at 7 seconds the 02801 bouy reports at 6:15am. I'm pickin' up a buddy that is married to an old roomie of mine from the airport in a half hour. Got both boards packed. Seems very windy outside. Two jugs of pipin' hot water. Junky. Windy. It is stormy. Couldn't be better.

He grew up in Maryland and surfed up and down the northern east coast as a kid. Moved to SF about 10 years ago and tackles OB as much as he can jugglin' a job. I was shittin' bricks out at OB one day a couple years back and he was out on a foam longboard, the only thing he had left after he let me bum his board. Everyone out there looked at him. Thought he was crazy, thought he was a tool out there on what was not a beginner day. Loved the looks on everyones faces when he stokes into his first one and styles the left for a long ass ride before he kicked out. No leash. Stylin'. Rippin'. Can't wait to see that upclose and first hand no matter what the weather and ocean bring this mornin'.

GO surf and be freee!!

Thursday, March 09, 2006



Did none of you burn your boards? C'mon let's all help out. The waves need to come back. We are starving. Think about all the other regions that would love the windblown surf we had the last couple of days. The Michigan surfers. The Texas surfers. We take a lot for granted. We don't give a lot back. Whatever. Bring the surf and good conditions back please.


Rincon. Fast. Hollow. Barrel sections. Smooth Rocks. Low tide. Point. Cove. Populated. Greedy. Fun.

Malibu. Slow. Peelin'. Chillin'. Fish flies. Party Wave. Pebbles. Glassy. Dude in front of you. Fun.

It's really all just energy moving you along while the ocean stays perfectly still. Pick a spot.

Wednesday, March 08, 2006



Spring is right around the corner. Winds. Gutless waves. Kooks coming out for the sun.

Bitter, yes I am. Not used to this shitty weather. Not used to a non-glassy ocean surface. Not used to the westerly winds. Not used to the biting cold. Not used to junky swell. Let's get some surf going here! Burn an old board. Bow to your Buddha. Rub your tikidoll. Anything. The South Bay needs surf.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006



Up deep in the crack of the morning. Just threw in my suit and a scalding hot jug of water in my car. I am headed off to a favorite summer spot. It's got a climb out of your car fast-run behind the bushes to the path down to a fun walk and longish paddle out. I am banking on, oh just throw me 3 waves over the 2 1/2 hours that I have to surf, and I will be smilin' all day. Love this spot. Hope you find your spot firin' tomorrow! It is gonna be interesting, stormy, sloppy, clean, mixed-up bag of tricks this morning. Like Outkast said back in the day "Get up, get out and do sumtin'!

Oh and I saw this last night on a popular surf forecasting site said this for its PM update "A lot of fast, peeling closeouts out there...". What does that mean?
A wave can not be fast and peeling. Or can it?
A wave can not be peeling and closeouty. Or can it?
A wave can not be fast and closeouty. Oh, wait, that is the South Bay and I love it.

Thursday, March 02, 2006



Hap Jacobs. Surfer. Shaper. Hermosa Beach local. Two classic ads from his HB store. He started surfin' the Hermosa waves way back in the 40's. Dale Velvy (another great shaper and surfer, more on him some other time!) partnered up with Hap that would split off and move to Hermosa Beach and start his own shop. But even when it was Velzy and Jacobs everybody referred to the place as the Velzy shop. Even local shaper Matt Calvan was able to get a job rough-shaping boards for Hap. Eventually Hap offered him the chance to start shaping boards from start to finish. Hap was just an all around great guy from everything I read about him.

"In the early '50s, Jacobs recalled, 'it looked like they were going to draft me and send me to Korea, so I decided to beat them to the punch. I'd been hanging around Hermosa Pier long enough anyway, working the California Surfrider raft rental concession. The recruiter for the Coast Guard said if I signed right then, I could go to Hawaii, and I took them up on it. Some of the finest experiences of my life. I worked on a buoy tender, so I was sailing much of the time. It was danerous work, but we didn't have to wear uniforms, and that appealed to me. No shoes, no shirt, sailing around the islands. And there was the surfing, of course."

Anyone surf today? I didn't. Hope you got it early as the high is around 10am. Beautiful day and ocean. Looked fun and small on the way to work though and I was kicking myself. Hap would have surfed.