Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Bar closed.

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Last call. Tuesday morning. Used to be a sweet sandbar right here. Nice long rippable right. No more. Miss Ocean has taken back her gift for the winter.

Sure didn't look like this last night. Fun jumbly splooshy peaks all over. Lucked into a couple. Sat and thought about the tough calls lately of seein' bands and missin' surf. Anyone brave it today? Looks rough out there and ugly and gray and lonely and dirty and exciting. Looks like we might get some swelly swell in again soon. Another bar will always be opening up and servin'.

Friday, February 24, 2006

Shuckin'

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Too much of this last night so I didn't check it. It was very heavy and dubby up in the Echo last night. Irie times were had by all. Anytime Scratch's Django (Old Man River) goes into a King Tubbys in a Fine Style and then into some Burning Spear dubbed out and deeply heavy tune, nothing is better.

Damn high tide anyway at DP. I know a place that could get goood and small at that low around 1ish. Hope some of you find your spot today. Do it for the kids stuck at work.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Gamey

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That is how my wetsuit smells after a ton of sessions and leaving it in a hot car. Too bad I haven't surfed two days in a row in a week and it definitely hasn't been hot out.

Oh, but what another glorious morning to be in the ocean. I hope I never take it for granted. Think of all of the people that can't make it to the ocean, who can't make the sunrise and get to the office in time, who can't make it out of their house, out of their bed. We are very blessed.

Stayed up North at a bud's house and got some goods before the eventual drive back to reality where I sit now. Swell still hanging on. Gliding. Riding. Swooping. Kicking out. Offshores still hanging on. Any firsthand South Bay reports?

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Brrrrrr and brrrrr.

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So cold and boring out there. Not much action. Swell, if there is any, is basically gone. Slow. Boring. Ennui. ADD. Oil Tanker having more fun. Paddle. Miss it. Paddle. Miss it. Ugh. Lame. Work

I want to go here-> Now.

Monday, February 20, 2006

Springy

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Is Spring here already? Our fun Winter is over?

I am not believing it....yet. Shitty out there. No swell. Winds. Rain run-off. Cold, Los Angeles cold at least.

Had a good session Sunday. Fun head high peaks after the rain. Super rinse afterwards. Probably will still get sick but it was worth it for the clean peaks and not many heads out. Especially on a weekend.

This week looks small. With weather. Try to find a pocket and see the ocean as half-full. Enjoy!

Thursday, February 16, 2006

Outer Water Blusteries

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Anyone go out yesterday evening at sunset? I got off work early for once, rushed home, rode the bike down, suited up, sand in my teeth on the way to the ocean edge, and paddled out. For some reason I love these windblown, big peaks everywhere, basically crappy conditions. Love the feeling of being so small out in the ocean with all the water moving around you, pushing you this way and that way, windblown peaks springing up all around, always in the wrong place but you luck into that one good one. Ride it for two seconds before it mushes out unless you can connect to the next little windblown peak. I am ramblin' but I had good fun last night. This morning was probably more of the same since the winds were blowin' all night. I didn't check it since I was out all night boozin' and burnin' seeing a cool band up in Hollywood.

Get out there and get some windy peaky surf!!

Wednesday, February 15, 2006

Live Music

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Aggrolites at the Echo this Friday!


Issacs in Santa Barbara on the 26th!

Didn't surf this mornin' but I imagine it is the same as the last few days only smaller. Mushy fun stuff. Hopefully the winds didn't chop it up too bad. Check out live music.

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Surf Car

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"This is the car we bought to tour the Island. It's a WWII Navy Surplus 1945 Ford. I got a ticket one day driving back from Makaha because a friend was sitting "outside the car" with the boards. We had to follow the Policeman directly to court to pay bail or go to jail.Funny how they didn't trust us Haoles. Can't imagine why not?"

Enough of the high tides at dawn. Seems the whole winter has been buried under mush if you have to get out by 8am. Still fun at a little peak today. Some fun double-ups are out there too if you are in the right spot. About 4 people on the peak, all cool heads trading off waves. As it has been, the lefts have been lining up better than the rights. Man I am a kook going left. Pigdoggin' for no reason down the line offbalance. No one cares. Keep practicin' and surfin'. High is at 10 at 4.9 feet so if you didn't get out by now, you are really in the soup. At 9:30ish it is a 5.3 high. Good luck.

Monday, February 13, 2006

Fish

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Is there anything more fun than them on a head high or under day. Shit, I ride mine most of the year. They have so much speed and still it feels like you are just connected to the wave so well. Maybe it is just that one fin that is dug into the wave. Ahhh, stoked session this morning. Fat dawn patrol tide but man wasn't it fun for a bit. Offshores. Mushiness. Solo until another dude paddled out. Amazing sunrise, spin, fade, glide up, glide down, kick out, paddle. Will be even better in an hour, but work calls. Hope you all got some.

Friday, February 10, 2006

Sell outs.

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Had to go inland up North early so I had to paddle out pre-dawn. With the 8:37 high, I knew that I could get a good hour or so good and decided to hit up the old Hermosa Pier. Brew some coffee, park around 14th st. by 5:30. Suited up, paddled out, got spooked, looked left, looked right, lefts, rights, a seal, pier lights glowin', solo, alone in your thoughts and experiencing surfing as it should be.

A little after first light several people paddle out, I'm rememberin' why I don't surf pier that much anymore. They are all cool heads though and we trade waves. More people come out. More people cruisin' around on the beach. Tents are being set up. I take a last wave in, gotta run, come up to the beach and notice it is a fuckin' Surftech demo day. Kooks all around taking out these boards, rippers taking out these boards, the stereotypical 35ish out of shape dude getting stoked for the first time, girls getting stoked for the first time, a zoo basically.

Then I see that it is Wingnut(above) and August(above right) puttting this on. What the hell? They still can outsurf most people, but why are you schlepin' a board that takes business away from shapers, takes away from the talking to your shaper and telling him what you want. Him know how you surf, how you like to surf, and the waves you surf.

Go see it for yourself. Seems like they will be adding more people to our breaks all day. Damn.

Thursday, February 09, 2006

Mavericks

6 comments

Recent swell up at a Half Moon Bay break. Maybe you heard all the hype. My parents even sent me up the SF Chronicle with the front page above the fold huge pic! Some 50,000 people along the cliff watching. All this adds up to more people starting to paddle out. No rant this time. Middle pic is the winner, a South African named Grant Baker, left of him is runner up Tyler Smith on a huge one, and then our favorite Flea summing up pretty much what happened to the "local" boys that day. Mel was cryin' all day apparently after he felt, and needed to tell everyone, that he "stuck a 10 footer air drop". You got beat. Mavericks!! Mavericks, Jan. 19th


Wednesday, February 08, 2006

Miles Davis

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I just had what this great album is titled. Big Fun. Woke up can feeling the morning coming in my crack of the back door. Ridin' along the coast for a half hour. Dawn just breaking and so was this break. Peelin'. Lucked into a couple screamers and got humbled on a bunch. The 4.1@15 swell is still out there pumpin' athough a little more infrequently. Walked back knawing on an apple stoked out of my mind. Beautiful, warm, nearly alone session. Got to work an hour late and the boss asked how my dentist appointment turned out. Perfect.

Tuesday, February 07, 2006

Winter

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A great one so far. Huge early West swells dug some deep holes in the ocean floor. Man listen. A small lull. Back at it with some steep energy that you could hunt down and get some good ones. Now a fresh fast movin' swell. Go 2006! Go February.

Anyone else scorin'?

And be mindful of spots
when yer yappin'.

Sunday, February 05, 2006

Burly.

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Holy wow. Got my ass kicked. Got one huge drop. Got one huge bottom turn. Got one huge wave on the head. Felt that second when your done paddlin' and you gotta pop up. Felt my rail lock in high on the wave. Felt my body fly over the water on a wipeout. Felt alive. Get out there.